Articles And Resources

When Can I Start Seeds?

To decide when to plant seeds inside for transplanting outdoors, first determine the average last frost date at your garden site. This can range from May 2 in the southeastern metro to June 11 in the Brainerd area and can vary a week or more depending on conditions. Next, check the back of the seed package for the time seedlings need to grow to transplant stage. Back out the number of weeks from the last frost date and you'll know when to start growing your seeds. If in doubt, wait a few days. It's better to start late than too early, since plants should go outside as soon as they are big enough. Be sure to 'harden off' your little plants gradually in outdoor conditions by setting containers out for several days for just a few hours each day. Choose a sheltered, partially shaded place when air temperatures are above 50 degrees. Keep both air and soil temperature in mind when choosing a day to plant your seedlings in to the ground. Try for an overcast day with minimal wind and do your planting in the late afternoon or early evening. Stop in to Landsburg's today. We have all the necessary supplies to start your own seeds in-home and can give you the extra knowledge you need to be successful!

Keeping Deer and Rabbits off the Garden Guest List

Deer are browsers. They will eat out of curiosity and will try just about anything. In areas where deer and rabbits are a problem, we recommend using repellants. Repellants really do work. The key is getting in the habit of applying them weekly. They act as a training aid. You are training them to stay out of your yard. The products we sell are organic mixes, not chemicals and are safe for the plant, the animal and the environment. Feeding deer in another, more desirable area can also be effective. Many even say it is an enjoyable experience. They will learn to eat the food you provide, instead of your plants. You can also reduce damage to your landscape by growing plants which deer find unattractive. For a list of favorite and not-so-favorite plants, stop in to our garden center for a free informational handout. As always, our expert staff will be happy to answer your questions.

Snow Mold and Winter Burn

With the snow gradually melting, you may be discovering your lawn has straw colored patches. If the grass remains cold and wet these patches will continue to enlarge. These are tell tale signs of a fungal disease called snow mold! There are two different types of snow mold, gray and pink. Gray snow mold rarely damages more than the blades of the grass and one can expect the lawn to recover fairly quickly, even if the damage looks extensive. Pink snow mold may invade the crowns and roots causing more serious injury to your grass. Snow mold is more common during years when an early, deep snow cover prevents the ground from freezing. The best prevention of snow mold is to treat your lawn in the summer and fall before the snow falls. If snow mold occurs and the grass was not treated, rake away dead and matted foliage from the damaged areas to allow the new growth to begin. Fungicides are not effective in spring after the damage has already occurred unless pink snow mold is involved. Pink snow mold may renew activity if cool, moist weather conditions prevail and may warrant treatment with a chemical fungicide. Winter Burn injury can take place whenever the soil freezes and wintery winds blow drawing moisture from leaves. Plant roots cannot uptake water from frozen soil to replace the losses experienced in the leaves. The longer these conditions exist, the more moisture is lost and death of leaf tissue results. With the winter the midwest had this year, there is a good chance you may see your evergreen trees have suffered from winter burn. (Source: Foster's, fostersinc.com)

The Dirt on Soil

By amending the soil in your garden, you can improve basic soil structure and, as a result, improve other characteristics of your garden soil. A soil amendment is a material that primarily improves the soil physically, as opposed to chemically. Soil amendments typically consist of organic matter such as peat moss, compost, aged manure, leaf mold, worm castings, or similar organic materials. Although soil amendments sometimes contain plant nutrients, the nutrient level is generally not high enough for this material to be considered fertilizer. Because sand drains freely, beginning gardeners sometimes amend clay soil with sand in an effort to improve drainage. By mixing sand and clay, these gardeners unwittingly make soil cement. What they don't yet know is that adding organic matter is the key to improving all types of soils. Without organic matter, sandy soil can't retain water long enough for plant roots to use it. Clay soils, because of their tightly packed particles, are too heavy to convey water. Organic matter is a food source for the macroorganisms and microorganisms, which do the major work of soil building, so it's an essential component for changing either type of soil. Macroorganisms are primarily made up of earthworms and some insects. Microorganisms are primarily made up of beneficial fungi and bacteria. All the below-ground creatures release plant nutrients as they break down organic matter. In the process, they improve your soil's drainage and water-holding capacity. The end product of the process of decomposition is the stable, fully decomposed material called humus. As sources of organic material, aged manure, leaf mold, well-decomposed sawdust, peat moss, or any type of compost will give good results. Compost has the advantage that you can make it yourself and be assured of a continuing supply.

Mole and Vole Control

Moles and voles are rodents that live underground and are very rarely seen except for the damage that they do. They feed on grubs, earthworms and other insects and also the roots of plants. All of this causes damage to the lawn by severing roots and raising sod levels. Sometimes it looks like someone took a garden hose and laid it out on the lawn in a twisting trail. They overwinter along the foundation of houses, paver patios and walkways, and boulder walls because these places are warmed by the sun and will hold the heat. They are territorial, so they leave in the spring, go to the big woods or fields and come back in the fall with their families! The best way to control moles and voles is to eliminate their food, namely grubs and earthworms to some extent. Repellents applied in the fall work great. We use, and sell, Bonide Mole Max, which also works well for mice. Any damage done can be fixed with a little top soil and some good grass seed.

The Top 10 Reasons to Garden

1. Garden for Safe, Healthy Food: By starting your own garden you can grow your own fresh produce and know that it is safe to eat. 2. Garden for exercise: Studies have shown that gardening for an hour can burn up to 350 calories. It can also help older adults reduce osteoporosis. 3. Garden to Add Beauty: Shrubs and trees can add shade and color, while herbs in the kitchen can add fragrance to the room and flavor to any meal. 4. Garden to Learn: The more you learn about plants and gardening, the more knowledge you seek to help your plants grow and stay healthy. 5. Garden to Make Money: Some people garden to produce fresh, healthy produce for a profit. Gardening and landscaping can also increase the value of your home. 6. Gardening to Meet People: Like any other hobby, gardening can help you expand your social circle. 7. Garden to Be Creative: Express your personality in your garden. 8. Garden to Win: Gardening can become a competition and can include national recognition and financial rewards. 9. Garden for Emotional Needs and Spiritual Connections: Gardens can provide a place to relax and unwind from a stressful day and can provide a sense of achievement. 10. Garden for Lasting Memories: Kids today are not experiencing the joys of gardening with their parents or grandparents. Reconnect with your memories and share gardening with your children or grandchildren. (Fostersinc.com)

SPRING PLANTING TIPS

1. Pay Attention to Soil Preparation. Do not skimp. Many beginning gardeners learn this the hard way. Don't bring your plants home until your soil is ready to plant. If you buy plants on impulse before the garden is ready, you'll either succumb to the temptation to plant without adequate soil preparation, or you'll have to tend the plants in their pots until the garden is ready. 2. Don't plant too early. The first warm days of spring often lure gardeners outside and tempt them to plant before the time is right. Some seeds, such as beans and corn, that are planted in cold soil can rot before they germinate. New seedlings or transplants can be stunted, weakened or even killed by low night temperatures. To avoid stress on your plants, wait until night temperatures stay above 50-55 degrees F. Look up the hardiness or minimum acceptable temperatures for the plants you want, and don't rush spring. 3. Don't plant too close together. Once the plants reach their full size the garden will look overcrowded and the well-being of the plants will be compromised. This will become apparent over time and it will look worse every year until some of the plants are removed. Even then, the remaining plants often look lopsided or unnatural. Properly spaced plants look and grow better and are less vulnerable to diseases from poor air circulation. When planning your garden, have an idea of each plant's mature height and width. 4. Don't delay in planting purchased plants. Plants waiting for a spot in the garden often languish on the porch or by the back steps until they dry out or become rootbound. Plants might survive a lengthy delay but can be so stressed that they never realize their potential. Bulbs, tubers and corms are some of the most frequently forgotten plant purchases. Bulbs need time to develop a strong root system before leafing out and flowering. 5. Cut or straighten roots before planting. A plant's roots can't grow very far before they hit the side of the pot and turn. When this happens, the plant is described as potbound. At the time of planting, these roots should be untangled and straightened as much as possible. To minimize the chances of buying a potbound plant, choose the smallest plant in the largest pot. If the roots can't be straightened , use a sharp knife to score the sides of the rootball. The severed ends will put out straight, new roots and the plant will establish itself better. The roots of herbaceous plants can be combed out with your fingers, or you can score the rootball with the edge of a trowel.

SHADE GARDENING WITH PERENNIALS

Shade gardening evokes a calm, inviting feeling. It beckons you to the garden with wisps of coolness and earthy smells. Having a shady area is not an obstacle, but an opportunity to discover many of the shade-tolerant perennials available for use. Shade not only varies by season, but it also can vary by time of day. Morning sun, for example, is cooler and preferred by moisture-loving plants. Afternoon sun is hotter and few shade-tolerant plants tolerate that condition. Light to partial shade areas are where shade is present for less than four hours per day. This could be an area where sunlight filters through deciduous trees with high branches, an east or west facing slope, or the shady side of a building. Areas where shade is constant throughout the day are considered full shade. Install a Shade Garden Consider the foliage effect when designing. Many perennials offer sumptuous appeal with different leaf patterns, colors and textures. A deeply shaded area can be brightened with the use of variegated foliage plants such as Hosta and Lamium. Thorough soil preparation prior to planting is essential to long-term success. This is the only opportunity to work the soil completely. Once plants are established, drainage and aeration cannot be substantially corrected without removing the plants. Organic matter should be added to the soil to improve the texture and drainage. A 4 to 6 inch layer of organic matter such as well-rotted manure, compost, peat moss, decomposed bark, or leaf mold should be worked into the soil by digging, spading or rotary tilling. Another key consideration is the moisture retention of your soil. Many perennials are adaptable to soils with varied moisture levels, while other perennials are very specific to a moisture level. (Perennial Plant Association)

Caterpillar Outbreak Could Destroy Foliage

In May of 2007, caterpillars of two moth species heavily defoliated many acres of hardwood trees and woody shrubs in Southern Cass and Western Crow Wing Counties. One of these caterpillars is the linden looper. When full-grown, it is 1.5 inches long, has a rusty brown head, and a bright yellow body with 10 thin, wavy black lines on its back. The second caterpillar is the fall cankerworm, which is 1 inch long when full-grown and varies from light green to dark brownish green, has a pale green to almost black head and a wide black stripe along the center of its back. When there are fewer numbers, the caterpillars tend to be light green and have longitudinal white lines along their backs. If the outbreak continues, these caterpillars will be done feeding on leaves by mid to late June, and the trees will grow replacement leaves by mid July. If the soil is rather dry in late June it would be advisable to maintain the vigor of the defoliated trees and shrubs by watering them each week. You can also use an insecticide to help solve the problem. Another control strategy is to trap the caterpillars on sticky bands this autumn, in order to lower their population numbers next year. Since these insects pupate in the soil and the females can't fly, the females will need to climb up the trees to lay eggs in the upper branches. The eggs will hatch next year. So, in early September, individual hardwood trees can be wrapped with sticky bands to trap egg-laden females as they climb the trees (DNR, May 23, 2008).

PRUNING POINTERS

Have you often wondered, when is the best time to prune your shrubs and evergreens? The questions we get asked most frequently are those having to do with when and how to prune shrubs and evergreens. Many gardeners are often apprehensive about doing any pruning for fear of permanently damaging or killing their plants. In almost all cases, more long term damage results from the lack of pruning than from any incorrect pruning. Here are just a a few simple rules that will help you to remember when is the best time to prune. SHRUBS As a general rule, spring flowering shrubs such as Spirea, and Lilacs should be pruned right after the season of flowering. This allows the plant to have plenty of time to develop new flower buds for the next season. Mid and late summer flowering shrubs such as Potentilla and Hydrangeas are best pruned in early spring before new growth starts. Shrubs grown primarily for their foliage are best pruned in early spring and can be pruned during the growing season as needed. It is usually best not to prune any shrub in late fall or early winter, since it may make the plant more vulnerable to winter injury. Rejuvenation pruning of shrubs should be done in the spring before growth starts. Many of the lower growing spireas and potentillas are examples of shrubs that benefit from rejuvenation pruning every one or two years. These plants should be pruned back to within 3 to 6 inches of the ground. Overgrown shrubs can be renewed by cutting approximately 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground. This is especially beneficial to red or yellow stem dogwood shrubs which display the most color on young stems. EVERGREENS Evergreens that grow continuously throughout the growing season such as juniper and arborvitae can be pruned almost any time except late in the growing season. Pruning after August can make these evergreens more susceptible to possible winter injury. PINE AND SPRUCE Pine and spruce put on a single flush of growth in the spring and then stop growing until the next season. These trees or evergreens must be pruned before the new growth, often referred to as candles, becomes hard and woody. This rapid growth normally occurs in early to mid June, so pruning in mid-June when the candles are about three-fourths elongated is preferable. Up to one half of the new growth may be removed. TREES Proper timing is important when pruning your tree. Most trees are best pruned in late winter or early spring while the tree is dormant in order to prevent the introduction or spread of disease. Oaks, honeylocust, apples, crabapples, pears, mountain ash and hawthorn are varieties that are best pruned in early winter. Maples, honeylocusts, birch, ironwood and elm will bleed if pruned in later winter or early spring. However, the bleeding is not considered to be detrimental to the tree (MNLA). These are just a few simple rules to help you do a better job of pruning and taking care of your flowering shrubs and evergreens. Always remember that proper pruning almost always improves the beauty and useful life of your shrubs and evergreens.

TEN TIPS FOR TROUBLE-FREE TOMATOES

Want fewer troubles with your tomatoes? Consider these ten tips: 1. Choose the right location. Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Leave plenty of space between plants for good air circulation. Staking also helps. 2. Rotate Crops. Many disease spores can live in the soil for years. Don't grow tomatoes or related plants like peppers and eggplants in the same spot year after year. If you can't rotate crops, plant tomatoes in large containers and change the soil annually. 3. Improve Soil. Get tomatoes off to a good start by planting them in well-drained, weed-free soil that's enriched with organic matter like well-rotted compost. 4. Water correctly. Deep, slow watering encourages good root formation and is better than short, frequent irrigation. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to avoid wetting foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases. Water early so plants dry before evening. By keeping moisture levels consistent, you'll help prevent problems like blossom-end rot and leaf curl. 5. Mulch. Reduce weeds and maintain consistent moisture levels by spreading mulch around plants. Leave space around the stem. Mulching reduces the spread of early blight and other diseases by preventing spores from splashing onto plants. 6. Encourage beneficial insects. Praying mantises, predatory wasps, lady beetles and toads are natural predators that reduce tomato pests. Keep them happy by avoiding the use of pesticides in your garden. 7. Don't smoke around plants. If you smoke, wash your hands, clothing and tools carefully before working in the garden to avoid spreading tobacco mosaic virus. 8. Keep it clean. Remove garden debris, leaf litter, and weeds to keep pests and pathogens away. To avoid spreading diseases, sterilize garden tools in a solution made from one part bleach to nine parts water. 9. Solarize soil. Want to control weeds, fungi and nematode diseases? Soil solarization kills weed seeds and diseases without chemical. Cover wet garden soil with clear plastic sheets to trap the sun's heat. Solarization works best in areas with long, hot growing seasons, and requires at least 4-6 weeks. 10. Plant the right tomato. Hundreds of tomato varieties are available, so select the types that grow best in your area. We can help you with that. Look for healthy green leaves and stems when buying a plant. Avoid tomatoes with roots growing out of a container's drain holes; they've been in containers too long. Check carefully for pests or diseased plant parts so you don't introduce these problems to your garden. The experts at Landsburg's are available to help you with all your tomato concerns. We can tell you how to deal with problems like cracking, catfacing and blossom-end rot. We have safe, organic fertilizers and pest controls. Remember, at Landsburg's our knowledge is free!

Deadheading...Your Plants will be Grateful

After your garden is growing well, it must not be left unattended. As the saying goes, "The frequent footsteps of the gardener are the best fertilizer." Our most frequent summer activity is deadheading our annuals and perennials. Most plants will perform better if you give them light, but frequent grooming. Deadheading, which means snipping or pinching off the faded flowers of plants, not only helps its appearance, but it also prevents seeds from forming. The process of developing seeds weakens a plant and sometimes even shortens its life. It also causes the plant to stop blooming, so if you want to enjoy your garden to its full extent, keep the flowers coming as long as possible by repeated deadheading Pinching back leggy annuals, such as petunias, every month or so will cause them to refurbish themselves and they will bloom anew for months. Don't decimate the whole plant at once. Just shorten a third of the stems by two-thirds of their length each week. By the time you've trimmed the last batch, the first ones will be renewed. (Hill, Nancy and Lewis, The Flower Gardener's Bible,)

Watering Tips

Always water your plants and your lawn in the morning. Feeding your plants in the morning gets them off to a good start and gives them the energy they need to get through the day, just as we need a healthy breakfast to start our day. In the evenings, plants wind down to rest, just like we do. Watering in the evening would be like supercharging them right about the time they are ready to go to bed. Watering in the morning, as opposed to at night, also prevents fungus from growing. Fungi like it cold, dark and wet, so watering at night provides the perfect conditions for fungus. Also, it's better to give a really good drink all at once, rather than smaller, more frequent waterings. And don't forget your water-soluble fertilizer once a week. Plants in containers need more attention than plants in the ground. Repeated waterings leach nutrients from the soil quickly.

20 Tips for Water-Wise Gardening

Appreciating the economic, environmental and psychological benefits of plants are easy. Just imagine a world without them. These assets, and the time and money already invested in landscapes, are reason enough to preserve them. Water-Wise gardening has advantages of its own; stronger plants, less maintenance, lowered water bills and decreased demand on natural resources. 1. Group plants according to water requirements to avoid over or under-watering. 2. Use plants that need less water. Plenty of attractive varieties meet this definition. 3. Install new plants when reliable rainfall is expected. In our area, fall is the best time to plant. 4. Build basins around shrubs and trees to limit runoff. 5. Mulch to reduce moisture evaporation. 6. Fertilize properly - too much stimulates thirsty new growth. 7. Pruning keeps plants strong and less water dependent. 8. Prioritize watering. New plants need more frequent watering than established trees and shrubs. 9. Irrigate lawns only when needed. If grass springs back up after you walk on it, it doesn't need water. Or, let your lawn go dormant; most grasses rebound when rain returns. 10. Mow higher and less often. Longer leaf surfaces encourage deeper rooting and shade roots. Mowing puts grass under additional stress that requires more water. 11. Water plants when the soil is dry, not before. 12. Use a spring-loaded hose-end turn-off device. 13. Adjust sprinklers so water reaches lawns and gardens, not pavement. 14. Inspect sprinkler systems for leaks. 15. Time your watering. Water early to decrease evaporation. Avoid windy days for the same reason. 16. Water infrequently, deeply and thoroughly. This stops wasteful runoff and encourages deeper root development. Plants with deep roots develop greater tolerance to dry spells. 17. Install a drip irrigation system. You can save up to 60% of the water used by sprinklers. 18. Move container plants to shady areas. Watering them over the root of a tree puts excess water to good use. 19. Remove weeds. Weeds rob water and nutrients from valuable plants. 20. Watch the weather. Don't irrigate if rain is predicted. Skip at least one watering after a good rain. Cut back watering times and frequencies in cool and/or humid weather. (ANLA Today)

Water Misconceptions

Drought is the result of lack of rainfall. Drought is better described as a supply and demand issue. When the demand for water in a growing urban community outstrips the resources, drought is a result. That's why sensible proactive policies and smarter use, and reuse, of water are keys to preventing drought. Watering your lawn lightly will save water and keep landscaping alive. Light water actually wastes water because it discourages roots from growing deeply, where the ground remains moist longer. As a rule, infrequent and deep watering is preferable. One good rainfall is sufficient to restore the water supply during a hot, dry summer. The average rainfall produces an inch of water, equivalent to the amount of water that evaporates in a single day. It usually takes three months of concentrated rainfall to erase the effects of a drought. Water is a limited resource. Yes and No. A community can certainly run out of water, but water also is a renewable resource, and one that can be recycled. If everyone uses water efficiently and takes advantage of recycling technology that exists today, water emergencies would evaporate. Restricting the water supply is the best way to conserve water in times of drought. Reducing water use can lead to an immediate short-term drop in consumption, but it comes with a price; higher temperatures and lower property values in residential areas, and potentially causing homeowner economic harm. Educating the community about wise water management is a better long-term solution. (ANLA Today)

Don't Pass Up A Great Gardening Season: Fall!

If the gardening bug only bites you in the spring, you're missing a prime opportunity. There are several reasons why fall is a great time to work on your landscape. Decreased water requirements. In many regions, fall brings more reliable rainfall than summer. Temperatures are cooler; soils don't dry out as quickly. Stress Reduction For Plants. Fall installation gives plants a chance to establish a strong root system. Plants entering dormancy are not under pressure to produce top growth and blooms. Hardier, Healthier Plants. New landscape additions are more likely to make it to adulthood because they don't have to withstand summer heat and sun. Pest populations decline in autumn, giving new transplants a fighting chance. Cooler temperatures make certain varieties hardier. Many wildflowers require cold weather to pop seed coats. Bulbs also need cold to bloom well in spring. Supplemental Mulch Available. Add fallen leaves to compost piles or run them through your lawn mower for instant shredded mulch. Most homeowners mow lawns one last time in fall; use those grass clippings to mulch beds. Labor Saving Season. Spring and summer are labor intensive seasons for gardeners. Fall is leisurely; grass and weeds aren't growing so fast, making this a perfect time to start new garden projects. Perhaps you'd like to establish a perennial bed or add some colorful fall annuals. More Quality Time With The Experts. If you felt lost in the springtime rush at the garden center, you'll enjoy the slower pace of fall. Nurseries have more time to answer questions and assist with fall planting ideas. (ANLA)

Dividing Iris

If your Irises weren't as showy this year, they might need a little more elbow room. Grown from rhizomes, bearded irises perform best when they're divided every 3 to 4 years. To split and transplant, trim back iris leaves, carefully loosen the earth around each rhizome, and then gently pop them out of the ground. Use a clean, sharp knife to separate the old rhizomes from the new and be sure to leave each section's corresponding roots intact. Next, replant individual plants or groupings of several irises about 2 feet apart. To help prevent root rot, you'll want to place the rhizomes fairly shallow in the soil. Mixing in a few new iris varieties now can also make a difference come spring. To help establish strong root systems before the first frost water new plantings well. For the most part, bearded irises aren't heavy feeders, but you can give them a boost with a light application of a slow-release, high phosphorus fertilizer just after they bloom next year. (Farm Garden, Susan Brackney)

3 TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR LAWN'S QUALITY THIS FALL

Mid-August to the end of September is the best time of the year to improve poor quality lawns. Lawns suffering from compacted soil, poor soil fertility, too much thatch or too many perennial weeds can really benefit from a little hard work now. 1. Aerification in which plugs of grass and soil are brought to the surface and either raked back in or removed helps loosen compacted soil and reduce thatch development. Aerification also helps prepare a better seed bed for overseeding an existing lawn. Many lawns were established by seed or sod on soils which had been highly compacted by construction equipment. Some lawn soils have been compacted by foot traffic. Several passes of a lawn aerifier when the soil is moist, but not wet, will greatly aid the development of a healthy lawn. 2. Late August, or any time in September is a great time to fertilize the lawn, particularly with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium which help the plant maintain vigorous growth throughout the entire plant, not just leaf growth. These two nutrients do not move down into the root zone very far, so combining with aerification allows them to get deeper into the root zone. Since autumn is a period of extensive root development and growth for grasses, adequate amounts of these nutrients in the soil are highly beneficial. 3. Vertical mowing removes thatch from a lawn and is beneficial if the thatch layer exceeds one-half inch. Vertical mowing is another way to prepare a lawn for overseeding to obtain good establishment. (Ron Olson, Extension Agent)

ENHANCE THE VALUE OF YOUR HOME

Landscaping does more than benefit the environment and make your yard a special place to enjoy. It can also add to the resale value of your home. In fact, the Gallup Organization estimates that landscaping can add between 7% and 15% to a home's value. There exists a direct correlation between the price paid for a home and the influence of landscaping in the buying decision. In addition, Money Magazine reports that landscaping has a recovery value of 100% to 200% if it is well done and harmonizes with the environment. This is higher than the recovery value for a remodeled kitchen or bathroom. Furthermore, trees, shrubs and other plants aid in reducing noise around your home, protect your house from chilling winds and reduce the costs of heating and cooling. Not only can you reap maximum financial reward from a well landscaped yard, but you get to enjoy the added beauty and character!

Fall Bulb Planting Tips

Get a jump start on spring color by planting bulbs this fall. Here are some handy planting tips from the American Association of Nurserymen. Plan for Continuous Color Many bulbs only bloom for a few weeks, so base your selections not only on their color, but also on the time they'll bloom and the colors of the other bulbs that will be blooming at the same time. Select some early bloomers, some mid-spring, and some that will flower later in the year. Group Plants Informally High impact gardens usually include a minimum of two dozens bulbs of each type grouped together. When grouping bulbs, arrange them in an oval or triangular shape. This creates a natural, relaxed look, as though the garden simply sprang up on its own. Remember to place the taller plants in the back and leave pathways so you'll have access to your plants. Decide When, Where and How You'll Plant Plant bulbs before the first deep frost, preferably in an area receiving plenty of sun. Though each bulb varies, most will require a bed 6-8 inches deep. Add sand or peat and replace the loose soil until the depth is correct for your bulbs. Place each bulb with the point facing up, and space them 5-6 inches apart. Cover the bulbs with the remaining soil and water thoroughly.

BE AWARE OF SEASONAL NEEDLE DROP

Despite their name, evergreen needles do not stay green forever. Older, inner needles discolor and drop off after one or more years, depending on the species. Sometimes the drop occurs slowly; other times large numbers of needs yellow simultaneously in late summer or early fall, making for a striking spectacle. Because the condition is triggered by the weather and the season, many evergreens are likely to show symptoms at the same time. This phenomenon could easily be mistaken for disease or insect damage.

Each species of evergreen tends to keep its needles for a defined length of time. Thus, cycles or patterns of needle drop develop for each species, although variation exists from tree to tree and from year to year. White Pines are the most dramatically affected trees, which typically bears three years' needles in summer and two years' needles in winter. The tree will appear particularly unhealthy if the yellowed needles outnumber the green ones of the current season. But this is natural.

Austrian and Scotch Pine usually retain needles for three years and Red Pine ordinarily drops its needles in the fourth year. Thus, three or four years' green growth will outnumber yellowed needles, even at peak periods, and none of these species will appear as unhealthy as the white pine periodically does.
Arborvitae needles usually turn brown rather than yellow when they age, and often remain attached much longer than matured pine needles. Yew needles turn yellow and drop in late spring or early summer of their third year.
Spruce and Fir needles also yellow and drop with age, but since these trees retain their needles for several years, needle drop is often not visible unless you search for it on inner branches.

It is important that you do not confuse this natural seasonal needle drop with various disease and insect problems that can seriously reduce the vitality and esthetic value of the tree. Needles that yellow and drop due to age may have occasional spots and blemishes, but nothing more. Fungal diseases can cause severe needle drop and discoloration, so be alert if spots are developing on the current season's needles. Mites often cause non-seasonal needle drop, particularily on spruce. Needles will become yellowish or brown. a light webbing will develop with heavy infestations. If you suspect mites, hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and tap the branch sharply. The mites will fall to the paper where they can be seen.

Needle miners of spruce produce clusters of dried, mined needles, usually webbed together. Aphids may cause severe yellowing of white pine needles, particularly new needles. Some forms of herbicide injury can also lead to needle yellowing and drop.

Irrigating evergreens thoroughly before the ground freezes will help to minimize the possibility of winter injury through dessication. Also, be sure to examine evergreens periodically for evidence of insect and disease problems. (UW Extension, Heimann, Pellitteri)

Growing Gardeners of Tomorrow

What does gardening do for kids? It helps them build self-esteem, teaches them to respect the environment and provides hours of fun, says the American Association of Nurserymen (AAN). Better still, it’s inexpensive and just outside their back door!

Kids build self-esteem by tackling new projects and producing successful results. Since the results of gardening are highly visible, eye-catching and fragrant, your kids will feel justifiably proud of what they’ve accomplished. Show them how to transplant and water seedlings, and give them their own container or small patch of garden.

Although half the fun of gardening is waiting and watching, you might choose faster-growing plants to keep your children’s interest high. And if you need help designing and installing a wonderful garden for your kids, consider calling in a landscape professional.

Gardening also gives children a better sense of how their actions affect the larger community. Explain the importance of conserving water and other resources. Develop a low-water demand garden using drought-tolerant plants, and put those plants demanding the most water at a lower elevation, so any excess from plants at a higher elevation will trickle down.

Gardening opens the door to endless new activities. Here’s just a sampling of projects your children, and grandchildren will love.

ANIMAL DAMAGE!

Most of us want to attract wildlife to our yards, as long as that wildlife minds its manners and only eats weeds. The reality of the situation is that when populations of rodents and deer increase and their food sources in the area are limited, your landscape and garden will suffer. Deer These lovely creatures have been on the increase in many urban areas due to the lack of natural predators and the abundance of food plants. Deer nip buds, branches and shoots from trees, shrubs, annuals and perennials. Favorites are arborvitae, fruit trees, dwarf bush honeysuckle, red-osier dogwood and hostas. Young trees are often broken or severely damaged in late summer and fall as male deer use them to rub the velvet coating from their antlers. Rabbits These cute, cuddly creatures multiply rapidly, and protecting your plants could be a full-time job. Tulip buds, peas, beans, beets, and woody plants such as apple, raspberry, cherry, plum, mountain ash, linden maple and rose, and flowering shrubs are a few of their favorites. These rodents will also gnaw the bark off stems and clip branches from low shrubs, particularly toward the end of winter when other food is scarce. Voles These small rodents, also called meadow mice, cause damage to evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs. They are particularly fond of fruit trees. Under cover of snow or ground covers, they strip back and can girdle roots and trunks, particularly in late winter. Their nests and runways are made on the surface of the ground, just under the snow, and can be obvious and unsightly in lawns as snow recedes. Destroying vole habitat by mowing grass short and keeping weeds down around trees and shrubs can be very effective. (Minnesota Horticulturist, Katherin Widin)

WILDLIFE IN YOUR GARDEN!

This is a frustrating time of year for many gardeners. After all your hard work over the spring and summer, rabbits, squirrels, voles, pocket gophers or deer arrive to take advantage of the plantings you have provided, assuming that you have provided food just for them. The two major defenses gardeners have against such competition are repellents and exclusion. Repellents are either area repellants or taste repellents. Area repellents repel the animal by smell, so it avoids the area. Examples include hanging bags of human hair, bars of soap or moth balls. Taste repellents are more effective in that they are applied directly to the plant and repel the animal by having a bad taste. The animal may sample the plant once, but the bad taste keeps it from trying it again. Examples include home remedies such as cayenne pepper and commercial products containing chemicals such as thiram, putrescent egg solids, or other foul-tasting products. Repellents are not, however, a cure-all. Taste repellents cannot be applied to plants you intend to eat, since you would also find the taste offensive. Most repellents must be reapplied regularly, especially after rain or periods of extreme heat. Not all products are registered for or effective against all species, and if an animal is hungry enough, they will often ignore the bad smell or taste. Despite these limitations, many gardeners may find repellents to be the best alternative in their particular circumstance. Another more permanent protection against unwanted sampling of your garden is exclusion. This may be done in several ways, depending upon the area and situation you are in. Individual plants may be surrounded by plastic tubes, chicken wire, or hardware cloth fences. You may also fence off your whole garden area to exclude the worst offenders. Gardeners may also find that general clean-up of the garden area will eliminate the brush, log or junk piles that provide protective cover for many of the offending critters. Also, the presence of pet dogs and cats will often serve as an aversion to these wildlife. (Dr. Jim Pease, Extension Wildlife Specialist)

Seed Catalog Ordering Tips

My mailbox is filling up with all sorts of "Great Offers" from seed catalogs. Well, some are and some aren't. Here are some tips to help you make an informed decision. 1. Be aware of zone! Hardy does not mean anything unless it says 'zone 3-4' and only 'proven zone 4.' Otherwise it is a "tender perennial." Which means Extra Work; covering, mulching, etc. That's fine if you are willing to do the extra work. 2. Shipping time. Spring in Minnesota is so unpredictable. Remember last year? Try to take the latest ship date you can, or prepare to care for you new babies in the house, or make other plans. 3. Size. When you buy plants through the mail, be aware of size. 18" bare root can mean from the top of the plant to the bottom of the roots, really only leaving you with maybe a true foot of plant. Not always a good deal! 4. Watch shipping charges. When you figure shipping charges in to the price of your plants it can really add up. I can honestly say when I have purchased plants from these companies, more often than not I have been disappointed. The plants are always smaller, especially bulbs. Which means they bloom later, or they take 2-3 years to bloom like they should. Generally, you will be safe ordering seeds from the catalogs, as opposed to plants. Seed catalogs usually have the hot, new varieties, are great reference tools and often contain great pictures! Shelly

Make Your Landscape a Winter Wonderland

The right plants can make your landscape a winter wonderland. Following are some ideas to brighten your winter landscape using attractive plants that withstand harsh weather. (ANLA) Showy Shrubs Red Twigged Dogwood - It's red stem provides beautiful color during the winter. Winterberry - This shrub has bright scarlet, winter-persistent fruit. Glossy Black Chokeberry - A splendid ornamental shrub with black fruits that hang on well in to winter. 'PJM' rhododendron - Green in summer, turns deep burgundy in winter. It's broad leaves contrast nicely with other shrubs. Hydrangeas - Keep their large, showy flowers on during the winter and wait to prune till spring. Trees Evergreens - Norway, blue or white spruce make the best windbreaks. They also create privacy between neighbors and habitat for wildlife. Crabapples - Brightly colored ranging from orange to crimson and yellow. 'Red Splendor' is particularly nice. River Birch - This tree has beautiful yellow fall color and attractive exfoliating bark for an interesting winter effect. Perennials Ornamental grasses - Their feathery plums and beautiful seed heads make a nice winter show. Sedum - This fall blooming perennial also provides excellent winter interest. Architecture When most of the plants have died back and are covered with snow the architecture carries the scene. Walls, patios and walkways become the focus. Sculptural accents make the difference between a stunning or dull winter garden. What do you see out your window? The birdbath may be frozen over, but if placed properly, it draws the eye from the house out through the landscape. Leaving seed heads instead of cutting them back creates unique focal points in the landscape. Container gardening. Gather evergreen boughs and sprigs of berries and tuck them into the dirt in a plastic pot. Freezes and thaws can leave clay pots cracked.

THE TEN MOST IMPORTANT CHORES TO DO IN YOUR YARD AND GARDEN THIS FALL

According to Shelly, Store Mgr 1. Cut back all perennials after a hard frost. Remove all dead debris and put into your compost pile. 2. Divide and/or move perennials. 3. Plant spring blooming bulbs, including crocus, tulips and daffodils. 4. Wrap the trunks of smooth-skinned trees like maple, ash, fruit trees and crabapples with tree wrap to help prevent frost cracks and animal damage from deer, rabbit and mice. 5. Wrap arborvitaes and soft needle evergreens like yews, white pine and red pine with burlap or black netting to help prevent wind burn and animal damage. 6. Spray evergreens, rhododendrons and azaleas with Wilt Pruf to prevent wind burn and salt damage. 7. Clean up and fertilize the lawn. Remove leaves, shred and put in compost pile or put on your veggie garden for next year. If you only fertilize your lawn once, fall is the best time. Cut your lawn one last time to about 3" tall. This helps hold snow cover to prevent freeze out. 8. Bury, tip or cover hybrid tea roses, floradunda roses or shrub roses. 9. Mulch tender plants or newly planted perennials and trees with straw to prevent deep freezing after the ground has frozen, mid to late November. 10. Make sure your plants are well watered going into freeze up, which is usually mid to late November.

A FEW MORE THOUGHTS ABOUT WINTER PLANT PREP

For healthy plants next spring, follow these guidelines from the American Nursery and Landscape Association. 1. Cleanliness equals healthiness. Proper sanitation is the best defense against pests and diseases. Fallen, rotting fruit is an ideal host for insects and diseases. Stage a complete cleanup under trees. Compost the refuse. Most organisms are killed at 130 degrees F. Add manure or fertilizer to the pile if the compost needs heating up. In colder climates, lay black plastic across the compost piles to turn up the heat. 2. Attack pests while they sleep. In temperate zones, fighting insects only in warm months is a futile exercise. If you know the winter habits of your common garden pests, you can wage a more effective pest control campaign. Many insects, like Japanese beetles, overwinter as grubs under sod. We can recommend products to apply this fall. Spading soil to a depth of one to four inches destroys cutworms and grasshoppers. Inspect fruit and shade trees for cankerworm eggs. The eggs are gray and shaped like flower pots. Iris leaves are a favorite winter resting place for slugs, so remove the leaves after first frost. 3. Enlist natural allies. Not all creepy crawlers are created equal. Spiders, ladybugs, lacewings, firefly grubs, snakes, toads and turtles will come to your aid by eating destructive garden pests. Feed birds during winter with seed and suet cakes and they'll return the favor by devouring your tree-boring pests and other insects during spring and summer. 4. Avoid pruning within six weeks of the average first frost date. Late fall pruning can result in new growth that does not have time to harden off before winter.

The Intrinsic Value of Gardening

Gardening is a wonderful way to ground ourselves, to slow down and pull out of the fast-paced world we live in. So much of the world is focused on instant impact, instant gratification, that to have to wait for something to grow and ripen is a nice way to change focus. It's especially appropriate for children to see a different method of producing a result than swiping a debit card or clicking a mouse. Sure, the work is hard, but how good it feels to come in muddy and sunburned with a basket of sweet red peppers and Brandywine tomatoes that you grew yourself. Planting a beautiful garden can be a great way to relive stress! (Kate Jerome, Nat'l Gardening Assoc.)

Gardening For Stress Relief

Whether you have a small patio to decorate, or a vast amount of space to tend, the act of making your particular stretch of nature into a haven can be a stress reliever in itself, and the garden that you create can bring you even more peace. Here's why: Sunlight: Just getting out in the sunlight can actually improve your mood! (In fact, there's a condition called Seasonal Affective Disorder that affects some people during Winter months when there is less sunlight.) Sunlight also provides an influx of vitamin D, and the fresh air that goes with it is good for your health. Getting outdoors to work with your garden is a great excuse to get more of this good stuff. Getting In Touch With Nature: Being in touch with nature and the great outdoors can help you feel more removed from the stressors of daily life. With the amount of time we spend indoors (at work, watching t.v., etc) many people feel an urge to connect with nature that goes unfulfilled. While you may not have the time to go camping or take a nature hike each day, having your piece of nature right outside your back door can help you feel some of this connection. Creating Beauty: The beauty of nature is a great stress reliever in itself. (Just think of how many times relaxation has been connected with pictures of stunning landscapes or recordings of nature's sounds.) Having your own bit of beauty available as a place for meditation, contemplation and relaxation can provide quite a bit of relief from stress. It's all part of making your home a haven from stress. (Gardening for Stress Relief How and Why Gardening is a Natural Stress Reliever. By Elizabeth Scott, M.S., About.com. November 7, 2007)

How Do You Know When To Pick Fruits and Vegetables?

Here are some rules of thumb to guide you in knowing when to harvest your fruits and vegetables. Most are harvested just before full maturity,for maximum flavor and the most pleasant texture.
Asparagus: Begin harvesting when spears are 6-8 inches tall and about as think as your small finger. Snap them off at ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
Beans (Snap): Pick before you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two. Check daily. It doesn't take long for beans to go from tender to tough.
Beets: You can harvest and eat the green tops that you thin out of the rows. Beets are really a matter of personal preference when it comes to the right size for harvesting. They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders protruding at the soil line.
Broccoli: We eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don't let the flower heads bloom. Don't expect your home grown broccoli to get to the size of supermarket heads. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a match head.
Brussel Sprouts: The sprouts will mature from the bottom up. You can begin harvesting once the sprouts are at least an inch in diameter. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem.
Cabbage: The cabbage head will feel solid when gently squeezed. Cabbage needs to be harvested when it reaches maturity or it will continue to grow and split open.
Carrots: Carrots can be hard to judge. The tops of the carrot will show at the soil line and you can gage when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one to be certain. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost is said to improve and sweeten the carrot's flavor.
Cauliflower: As with broccoli, your home grown cauliflower heads will probably never match supermarket size. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Corn: About 3 weeks after the silks form, they will turn dry and brown. The kernels should exude a milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber: Cucumbers race to the harvest with zucchini. Check daily and harvest young. Timing and length will vary with variety. The fruits should be firm smooth. Over ripe cucumbers can be very bitter or pithy, even before they start to turn yellow.
Garlic: The garlic tops will fall over and begin to brown when the bulbs are ready. Dig, don't pull, and allow to dry before storing. It's best to simply brush off the dirt, rather than washing.
Kohlrabi: For the best texture, harvest once the kohlrabi bulb has reached about 2-3 inches in diameter. The bulbs become tougher as they grow and age. Pull or slice at the base.
Leeks: Harvest leeks when they are about 1 inch in diameter.
Lettuce (Head): Harvest once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out. Lettuce (Leaf): Harvest the outer leaves once the plant has reached about 4 inches in height. Allow the younger, inner leaves to grow. Leaf lettuce can be harvested in this fashion for most of the summer.
Muskmelon: There are many varieties of muskmelon, but a general rule of thumb is that the color should change to beige and the fruit will 'slip' from the vine when lifted. You should also be able to notice a sweet smell when ripe.
Onions: Onions can be dug once the tops have ripened and fallen over. Allow the onions to dry in the sun.
Peas: The pea pods should look and feel full. Peas are sweeter if harvested before fully plumped. Peas really need to be tasted to determine if they are sweet enough.
Potatoes: 'New' potatoes can be harvested when the tops start to flower. Carefully dig at the outer edges of the row. For full size potatoes, wait until the tops of the potato plants dry and turn brown. Start digging from the outside perimeter and move in cautiously to avoid slicing into potatoes.
Pumpkins: Once the pumpkins have turned the expected color and the vines are starting to decline, check to make sure the skin has hardened enough that poking it with your fingernail will not crack it. You don't want to pick your pumpkin too soon, because it will stop turning orange once it's cut, but don't leave them out if a hard frost is expected.
Radishes: Radishes mature quickly. You will see the shoulders of the bulbs popping out of the soil line. If left too long, they will become tough and eventually go to seed.
Rutabaga: The bulbs should be about 3 inches in diameter, generally about 3 months after setting out. Rutabagas can be mulched, left in the ground and dug up as needed. Cold weather improves their flavor.
Swiss Chard: As with leaf lettuce. Cut the outer leaves and allow the center to continue growing.
Spinach: Spinach goes to seed quickly. Harvest by cutting at the soil line before you see a flower stalk beginning to shoot up.
Squash (Summer): Pick young and check often. The skins should be tender enough to poke your fingernail through.
Squash (Winter): Color is a good indicator of winter squash maturity. When the squash turns the color it is supposed to be, cut from the vine. Do not let winter squash be exposed to frost.
Tomatoes: Harvest tomatoes when they are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. Gently twist and pull from the vine.
Turnips: The turnip shoulders should be about 2 to 2 ½ inches in diameter at the soil line, when ready. Harvest once they reach maturity. Overripe turnips become woody.
Watermelon: The white spot on the bottom of the melon should change to a deep yellow when ripe. Some people can hear a change in the sound made when the melon is thumped with a finger. It should make a hollow sound when ripe, but this is a skill that must be developed. By Marie Iannotti

Plants That Attract Hummingbirds

Butterfly / Hummingbird Garden Design

Click on photo to enlarge

Drying Hydrangeas

Dried hydrangea blossoms can last and look beautiful for years. There are several ways you can dry hydrangeas.

Water drying hydrangea flowers helps them retain their color and last longer. It sounds counter intuitive, but water drying allows them to dry slowly and helps them hold their color and their shape. Even the stem seems sturdier when dried this way.

1. First, cut each flower with a 12'-18' stem attached. The length is for ease of handling, it's not a science.
2. Then remove all the leaves from the stems.
3. Place the freshly cut flowers in a vase with fresh water. Make sure the stems are at least half covered with water.
4. Move the vase to a cool spot out of direct sunlight. The flowers will still look attractive, so go ahead and display them.
5. Don't add more water as the water in the vase evaporates. It's just there to allow your hydrangeas to dry naturally, rather than simply dry out. Once the water is totally evaporated, your hydrangeas should feel dry to the touch and ready to use.

Toasted Pumpkin Seeds with Sugar and Spice

• Prep Time: 5 Minutes
• Cook Time: 45 Minutes
• Ready In: 50 Minutes
• Servings: 4

• 1 cup raw pumpkin seeds, rinsed and dried
• 6 tablespoons white sugar, divided
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. 1. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F (120 degrees C). Spread pumpkin seeds in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until dry and toasted. Larger seeds may take longer.
2. 2. In a large bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of white sugar, salt, and pumpkin pie spice. Set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and sprinkle the remaining sugar over them. Stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar melts, about 45 seconds. Pour seeds into the bowl with the spiced sugar and stir until coated. Allow to cool before serving. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Companions Can Make Life Easier

One of the best ways to bring a garden into balance where plants actually assist each other toward health is by companion planting. As we plan our gardens, if we put some thought into how the plants affect each other, we can add diversity for beauty, as well as companions that are beneficial to each other.
Plant Companions
Many gardeners believe that certain plant combinations have extraordinary (some even believe mysterious) powers for helping each other grow. Happily, scientific study confirms that some combinations have real benefits. In the end, though, only your practical experience and a willingness to experiment can demonstrate the benefits of companionship in your garden. So, how exactly does companion planting work?
Physical Assistance
First of all, companions can physically help each other grow. For example, tall plants provide shade for sun-sensitive shorter plants, helping them thrive through the hottest part of the summer or nursing them off to a healthy start. Lettuce planted with woodland tobacco and spider flower will have the shade it needs to thrive into the hot days of summer. Why not try lettuce in your flower garden as a spring crop?
Use Garden Space Efficiently
Companions can help use garden space more efficiently such as when a vining plant like winter squash covers the ground under its tall neighbor like corn. This way, two plants basically occupy the same ground in the garden.
Pest Repellants
Some companions prevent pest problems on other plants. Onions and garlic repel some pests. Planting them close to a tasty crop can actually help keep problem pests away or at least reduce their damage. Try planting garlic chives as companions to roses. Their starry white blossoms make a beautiful accent to roses and the garlic scent supposedly repels rose slugs and leaf miners. Gardeners have planted marigolds next to tomatoes for years as repellant to nematodes on the tomato roots.

Cucumbers and nasturtiums are natural companions. Plant vining nasturtiums to grow along with the cucumber vines to repel cucumber beetles. Some companion plants act as trap crops to lure pests away from more desirable plants. Plant Chinese cabbage near eggplants. Flea beetles love eggplant but they love Chinese cabbage even more. So, the flea beetles eat the cabbage and leave the eggplants alone. Leave some pigweed plants to grow in the vegetable garden as an aphid trap. The aphids flock to the pigweed and leave succulent garden plants alone.
Repellant Plant Foliage, Enhanced Flavor
Tomato foliage is also a repellant for many pests, and planting tomatoes right next to cabbages may help ward off the cabbage moths. Planting mint or basil next to tomatoes will enhance the tomato flavor. What better combination for pasta than tomato and basil?
Attract Beneficial Insects
Plant cabbage and dill together. Dill attracts tiny beneficial wasps that control imported cabbageworms and other cabbage pests, and is also a host for the beautiful swallowtail butterfly larva. Sweet alyssum flowers attract predatory wasps, so plant them alongside bushy crops like potatoes, or let it spread to form a living ground cover under arching plants like broccoli. By Kate Jerome, Nat'l Gardening Assoc.

Winter Pruning Pointers

Pruning deciduous plants in winter promotes fast regrowth in spring. It's also easier to prune at this time of year because you can see the shape of the plant with foliage out of the way. Prune fruit trees, and deciduous trees and shrubs that don't flower in late winter or spring, but make sure the temperature is above 20 F. Although many people are horrified to see a tree bleed sap, it only looks harmful.
Crossing or Rubbing Branches
During the winter, after the leaves have fallen, crossed or rubbing branches are most easily observed. Branches that are too close together destroy the scaffold branching pattern you've established, and they compete with one another for nutrients, water, and sunlight. When they rub together, they create a wound than can open the way for insects and disease to attack the tree.
Water Sprouts and Suckers
Water sprouts are soft, flexible shoots that rapidly grow upward from main branches. They often appear from latent or adventitious buds after excessive or improper pruning. Water sprouts drain energy from the tree. They are weakly attached to the tree and they can become the target of insects. Get rid of them as soon as they appear. Suckers are growths similar to water sprouts that appear on or at the base of the tree. They grow from the tree's roots. To control suckers, prune them. Like water sprouts, suckers should be removed immediately. Besides being unsightly, they are also weakly attached and can be the target of insects and disease.
Maintaining the Central Leader
If a mature tree develops a competing leader, resist the urge to immediately cut it off. Instead, reduce the secondary leader by one-third each year for three years. Some trees, such as maples, oaks and lindens often develop competing leaders. Subduing competing leaders over a few years slows down their growth and encourages the tree to develop a stronger main leader with wide-angled scaffold branches. As the tree matures, multiple leaders may form, however, they will be less dominant than the principal leader and the tree's structure will be better able to withstand winds and storms. (The Art and Science of Pruning, Pg 21.)

New Ways to Use Wildflowers by American Meadows

Sure you can plant a big meadow of wildflowers, and many gardeners do. But recent refinements in seed mixtures and improved planting methods make it easy to use wildflower seeds for color wherever you want it. Here are some new ways to use wildflowers seeds from American Meadows.
Invest in your landscape and the environment: The EPA estimates that 5% of our nation's air pollution is caused by lawn mowers. As always, the cost of landscaping with wildflower seeds is a gardener's dream. Your grandest plans are possible when you utilize the 'wildflower seed advantage.' What advantage? You can cover a large area for a modest investment and save money, work and emissions. Think about it. The average perennial plant costs about four to six dollars and maintaining lawns requires constant cost and effort. With seeds, you can have thousands of perennials for just pennies each and you can greatly reduce the time it takes to maintain your lawn.
Pick your favorites and cut costs: Say you want to edge a walk with flowers. All you need is a ¼ lb. of your favorite annual wildflowers. Wildflowers like California poppies, multicolored cornflowers and others stay short and bloom for months. You can even make up your own mix. A favorite is annual baby's breath with lush red poppies-they're easy and super-quick to bloom. Best of all, your flowers won't look the same as all the others on the block.
Plant when you please - Spring or Fall: There are advantages for both times - the fall ensures early blooms and is often a less-hectic time, while spring planting allows for more predictable weather patterns. Wait until after the first frost, and then sow your seeds.
Wildflowers in containers?: Absolutely. This is another area creative gardeners have found to maximize bloom from wildflower seeds. For example, we know a lady who buys her seeds carefully by color and height, and sows them in planter boxes by her front door. She has spectacular bloom all season long, and all her friends are amazed! It's the same for window-boxes, patio pots-wherever you want quick- bloom color. Container gardening is a growing trend today, and wildflower seeds, with their low cost and wide choice of colors fit the bill perfectly. You can even start your containers inside under grow lights when you start your vegetables.
Fill in garden spaces with quick, easy color: Many of our friends use wildflower seeds as a finishing touch in their gardens, borders-almost anywhere they need space filled with color. An expert perennial gardener we know always has a sack of annual seeds to scatter each spring between established perennials and shrubs. A few weeks after this simple sowing, he has billows of budding red poppies, cornflowers, cosmos and more. As they sprout and bud, he transplants them wherever he wants them to bloom and they bloom for months. It's really easy.
Top your fall bulbs for bloom all next summer: Tired of cleaning up daffodil debris after spring bloom? Simply scatter wildflower seeds over your bulbs this fall, and when the bulbs begin to die down, your wildflowers will be green and growing to cover it all. Then the flowers will bloom for you all summer and fall, right up until frost.
The environmentally-smart mixtures: Today's wildflower seed blends are greatly improved. In addition to the favorite regional mixes, annuals, perennials and blends for partial shade, you'll find mixes for All-Native plantings, Habitat Gardening, Deer Resistance-even a new mix that helps support the declining bee population in the US. You can even create a mix only with flowers that are specifically native to your area.
If you want your garden to dazzle your neighbors and be unique, try wildflowers. They are easy to plant, fast to bloom and cost effective. Two of the true joys of gardening are the process and the result. Planting wildflowers provides you with the pleasure of planting and nurturing from seed, as well as the pride of an amazing result. Whether you're new to wildflowers or looking to try something different, we hope these ideas will spark new ways to look at wildflower gardening.

Summer Bird Feeding Tips by MN DNR

Feeding birds in summer can provide an abundance of surprising and interesting visitors. Bluebirds, mockingbirds, thrashers, catbirds, orioles, grosbeaks, towhees, woodpeckers, and hummingbirds can all be attracted during the summer months.
You can double the number of bird species visiting your feeders by offering a diversity of food and feeders during the summer. American robins, Gray catbirds, Blue jays, and Northern cardinals are readily attracted to apple halves. Place the halves on nails that are driven into a perch, such as a tree stump or the lop of a log, near the ground.
While it is generally well known that Northern orioles feed on orange halves, it is less well known that Red-bellied and Red-headed woodpeckers are also attracted to them. As with apple halves, simply push the orange halves onto nails that are partially driven into convenient logs, stumps, or the roofs of feeders.
Orioles, Gray catbirds and American robins will also eat grape jelly. Provide the jelly in shallow trays about three or four inches in diameter and about one inch in depth. Providing sugar water is a great way to attract hummingbirds. The solution is prepared at a ratio of four parts water to one part cane sugar. Boil the solution, then let it cool before filling your feeder. Unused sugar water can be stored in the refrigerator until needed. Adding red food coloring is unnecessary because the red plastic feeder ports will attract hummingbirds. Change the sugar water solution regularly to prevent the formation of a black fungus that can degrade the solution.
Ripe bananas have two potential uses for the bird-feeding enthusiast. First, try placing several overripe bananas in a mesh bag and hang it near your hummingbird feeder. The fruit will soon attract a colony of fruit flies. Hummingbirds will drink the sugar water and alternately visit the "banana bag" to capture the fruit flies, which provide a good source of protein. A second use of bananas is to place some on a feeder tray in the spring and early summer, especially during the warbler migration. Peel one side or split the banana lengthwise to expose the fruit. Tennessee warbler, Summer tanangers, and Northern orioles are all potential visitors for a banana lunch.
The most successful bird-feeding stations have at least twelve to fifteen feeders arranged in three or four clusters. Feeders should be in the open, at least ten feet from shrubs or other cover where cats could hide. If you place a feeder next to a tree or shrub, encircle it with 2" x 4" welded wire garden fencing at least 30" high.
This prevents cats from leaping into the feeders and catching birds. It also deters the approach of raptors that may occasionally visit feeder sites.catching birds. It also deters the approach of raptors that may occasionally visit feeder sites.
Water is also a necessary ingredient for a successful summer feeding program. Water is especially attractive to birds if it drips, splashes, or mists. Water baths should be maintained at a depth of an inch or less and cleaned regularly. They should be placed in open area and far enough from feeders to prevent seeds from falling in.